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(No Model.) 3 S'heets--Sheet 1.

.R. EIGKEMEYER.

MACHINE FOR SETTING THE FOLDED OR CURLED' EDGES OF HAT BRIMS! No. 331,286. Patented Dec. 1, 1885.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

R. EIOKEMEYER.

MAOHINE FOR SETTING THE FOLDED 0R GURLED EDGES 0F HAT BRIMS.

No. 331,286. Patented Dec. 1, 1885.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. R. EIOKEMEYER.

MACHINE FOR SETTING THE FOLDED 0R UURLED EDGES 0F HAT BRIMS.

No. 331,286. Pateinted Dec. 1,1"885.

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RUDOLF EIGKEMEYER, OF YONKERS, NEXV YORK.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters P atentNo. 381,286, dated December 1,1885.

Application'filed July 10, 1884. Serial No. 137,332. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, RUDoLr EIOKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of \Vestchestcr and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Setting the Folded or Gurled Edges of Hat Brims; and I do hereby declare the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished and forming a part of the same, is a clear, true, and complete description of the several features of my invention.

In the operation of curling hat -brinis the edges are first turned over toward the crown, and it is after that portion of the operation is completed that I proceed to employ the apparatus which I have devised. It is wholly immaterial in what manner or by what means this preliminary work may have been performed so long as the brim edge has been sufficiently turned or folded, the objects of my present invention being to economically and effectually set such a folded edge so that it will be as permanent as possible and thoron ghly capable of maintaining its form during and after such subsequent operations as may be incident to brim-curling. WVhethcr the folding of abrim edge be performed by the aid of haud-tools or with machines as heretofore organized for that purpose, the folded edge has been generally operated upon progressively by moving both hot and cold pressingirons around upon a folded brim at or near its periphery, and in some cases thereafter the brim has been exposed to pressure, one-half at a time, between cold plates. I secure economy by pressing all parts of a folded edge simultaneously, and I obtain an effectual and permanent set of the edge by compressing it while heated and then cooling it while still under pressure; and for obtaining the best results I first compress the folded edge while cold, thus breaking down the fiber of the felt, then while still under pressure the folded portion of the felt is well heated for allowing the stiffening matter therein to soften, and e11- abling the felt to adjust itself to the changed conditions, and then-while still under pressure I cool the folded edge for hardening the stiffening matter and thoroughly setting the felt, and this particular method of setting folded brims I deem to be novel, and it will, as a division hereof, be made the subject of a separate application for Letters Patent.

As hereinbefore stated, it is immaterial as to the manner or means employed for preparing brims preliminary to said setting opera tion; but I have devised a series of novel machines for successive operation in the curl ng of hat-brims, and the settingpress, hereinafter described, constitutes one of the machines of said series. As time is an important element in economy, I prefer to employ said brim-setting machines in sets of two or three, to be operated by one person, so that while one or two machines are operating upon hats at different stages the second or third may be supplied with or relieved from a hat.

In my brim-setting machine the edge of a brim can be first compressed while either cold or hot, and if cold it is while still in position and under pressure then heated, and then after stillfurther pressure it is cooled before removal from the machine; but two or three of such machines could be employed, one of which would be always heated and one or two always cold, and this would only involve the handling of the hat two or three times durlng the operation in carefully shifting 1t from one machine to another, and the time so occup ed would be partially offset in using said mach ne upon one hat by the time and labor necessarily involved in alternately cutting off and lettmg on steam and cold water for varying the temperatureof the brim.

In my machine I have provided means whereby a hat, whether on a block or by itself, can be always accurately mounted in the press; but such means are not absolutely essential when the machine is operated by a skilled workman. In the one case a centering-chuck is provided for proper engagement with a hat-block, and in the other case an oval ring is mounted on the bed of the press, which serves as a gage for the folded edge of the brim, and assures uniform results; but the faces of thebed and the press-head being coincident, and a central space being provided in the press-head large enough for the largest hat-crown, good results will accrue if no such centering devices be employed. I have also IOO provided the bed of my press with means for adjusting its face in true parallelism with the face of the press, and said bed is also provided with means whereby it can exert an effective yielding pressure, so that when heavily set upon a brim said pressure is closely followed up in proportion as the compressed felt yields under the softening effect of the heat which is next applied, and I have also pro vided for hat-beds of varied construction and for readily shifting from one to another.

As hereinafter described, my machines are operated by foot-power for moving the bed toward and against the face of the press-head, and by hand-power for releasing pressure; but said machines can be readily organized to be operated by steam power without departure from certain features of my invention.

To more particularly describe my invention, I will refer to the accompanying three sheets of drawings, in which Figure 1, Sheet 1, is a vertical central section of one of my machines in what I deem its best form and with the hat-bed lowered, a hat with a folded, turned, or curled brim thereon as if ready to commence operations for flatly compressing and setting the edge of the brim. Fig. 2, Sheet 1, is a vertical central section of the hat-bed, a block, a hat thereon having a rounded or half-curled edge, and a guideplate by which said edge is maintained in its rounded condition during compression. Fig. 3, Sheet 2, is a section corresponding to Fig. 1, but with the parts thereof in position as if applying maximum compression to the brim of the hat. Fig. 4, Sheet 2, is a top view of the hat-bed with a guide-plate and hat on a block, the hat being shown in horizontal section through the crown and with its folded brim compressed. Fig. 5, Sheet 3, is an enlarged vertical central sectional View of the hat-block guide-ring and hat-bed and also its supporting devices, together with the upper portion of the press, showing the same on a line at right angles to the sectional lines of Figs. 1 and 2.

The frame A of the machine may belargely varied in construction, but, as here shown, it consists of two side plates, to, alateral bottom plate, a, a middle plate, a, and an annular top plate, if. The press-head B is oval in its outline, has a working-face, b, on its lower side, and is bolted to and below the annular top plate, of. Without departure from certain portions of my invention this press-head may be of solid metal when used solely as a cold press, or, when to be so used, it may be chambered or cup shaped for the reception of water, and also ice, if need be; or it maybe hollow and provided with pipes for securing the circulation of cold water therein; or itbeing thus hollow, steam-tight, and constructed of metal, which will safely endure the expansion and contraction incident to alternate heating and cooling, it may be provided with pipes and suitable cocks, whereby steam and cold water may be alternately supplied thereto. As here shown, said press-head B is annular to freely receive the crown of a hat, and it is hollow and has a dischargepipe, c, cold-water pipe and cook d,and asteam pipe and cock, e. Said head may be composed of castdron; but for durably sustaining the strains incident to expansion, steam-pressure,and contraction, it is best to rely upon brass or bronze. The lower surface or brim-pressing face of the press-head is flat and smooth. In this connection I will state that I have heretofore used hollow hatmolds supplied with cold Water, or supplied with both cold water and steam. As, for instance, in my Letters Patent No. 216,319, dated June 10, 1879, I show, describe, and claim a brinrcurling mold which is hollow, and provided with means whereby steam and cold water may be alternately supplied thereto; and in said patent I also make claim to that improvement in the art of curling hat-brims which consists in confining them upon and in close contact with a heated brii'n-curling mold, and after they are properly heated and curled cooling them by rapidly cooling the mold. In practicing that method the molds necessarily possess the form and contour which is desired in the finished hat, or, in other words, true molds were involved; butin the method herein described and claimed no molding operations are involved, but merely a compressing operation of a turned or folded edge, by which it is permanently set in its folded condition. The hat-supporting bed 0 is detachably mounted upon an oval or other shaped bed-plate, f, which is mounted on top of averticallyreciprocating spindle, D. A central stud, g, and a dowel pin, g, serve as means for properly mounting the hat-bed on said plate. Said spindle,below the bed-plate,has a cross-head, h, through which four vertical posts, i, extend and serve as supports for the hat-bed and its bed-plate. This portion of the ma chine is best shown in Fig. 5, wherein it will be seen that each post at its lower end is encircled by a spring, 70, which is surmounted by a washer and a nut, which is tapped to the threaded lower portion of the post; also, that at the extreme lower end of each post there are set-nuts k As thus constructed, it will be seen that an accurate leveling adjustment of the bed with reference to the face I; ofthe press-head B can be readily made by these nuts, and that the compressing force of the springs can be readily adjusted by the nuts 70. The spindle D is moved upwardly by the treadle-lever E, pivoted at its rear end to the frame of the machine, and by one or more links Z and arm Z to a rock-shaft, m, which in turn is connected to the spindle D by arms n, links it, and cross-head 11. This lifting mechanism is similar to the treadle and toggle-levers employed in the hat blocking and stretching machines shown in my prior Letters Patent, Nos. 175,953, 198,876, and 200,034., and it is obvious that the treadlelever shown in my Letters Patent No. 206,168 could be used with facility. As compared with said prior lifting mechanism, I have slightly improved it by so shortening the arms a and links a that their pivotal connection nearly occupies the same vertical plane as the rock-shaft and cross head when the treadle is depressed and full pressure applied to a brim, as clearly indicated in Fig. 2, and therefore I have applied to said rock-shaft m the handlever F, whereby the links are readily thrown out ofline, the pressure conveniently relieved, and the hat'bed lowered.

The only parts of the machine to be now described are a hat-block chuck and the gage or guide plate a", which is mounted on the upper surface of the hat'bed. This plate is provided with dowel-pins, is oval, annular, of less thickness than twice the average thickness ofa hat-brim, and is one of a series varying in internal dimensions to correspond with the various sizes of hat-brims. It is not absolutely essential in this machine, but it contributes to rapidity in operation, so far as it enables a hat to be promptly located in a desirable position on the bed, and it also serves, when used with a block-chuck or without, to prevent the tendency of the folded edge to flatten outside of its proper edge line whenever the felt chances to be scant at any one or more points at the periphery of the brim. The hat-block chuck 0 is mounted centrally on the bed and occupies a central aperture in the hat-block 19. As here shown, said chuck has an irregular outline, so that it can receive the block in but one way, thus obviating the use of dowel-pins and holes, although these latter may be used in this machine in lieu thereof. Said chuck 0 is of novel construction,and will constitute the subject of a separate application for Letters Patent.

Referring now to Figs. 1 and 2, it will be seen that the hat q of Fig. 1 has its brim folded or turned inwardly, as at q, and that the hat q in Fig. 2 has its brim also folded, turned, or curled inwardly, at (f, but with a more fullyrounded edge than the brim q of the hat (1 of Fig. 1.

In compressing the fold q of the hat (1 the overturned portion is pressed down flatly upon the upper surface of the brim, but in compressing the partially-rounded curl q" of the hat (1 it is essential that the brim-plate r, Fig. 2, be employed, having a rounded drooping edge at its sides. When such a brimplate is employed, the hat-bed O is slightly concave from end to end, as indicated in Fig. 2, instead of fiat, as in Fig. 1, and said brimplate 0" is convex from side to side, because it is used forhats in which a partial curl has already been formed in the brim, and this is afterward developed into a full curl by drooping the ends of the brim, as set forth in a separate application for Letters Patent filed by me. The object of using this machine on such brims is to thoroughly set that portion at q and (f, and that, having them in either of those forms, I proceed substantially as follows: \Vhether on or off a block, they are placed centrally upon a hat-bed, the latter being with or without the gage-plate a, and the bed being lowered, as in Fig. 1. If the presshead B is filled with cold water or is empty and cold, the hat-bed is lifted fully by the treadle, thereby forcing the folded edge against the press-face b and compressing said edge so as to break it down, but without rupturing the felt. lVhile thus compressed steam is admitted to the press'head, and the folded portion of the brim is fully heated. As the softening of the brim proceeds and the glue or other size yields to the heat, the compressed portion of the felt readily readjusts itself to the new conditions, and the springs 70, being compressed, follow up every advantage by further forcing the bed toward the press-head face so long as the felt is disposed to yield. Then the steam is cut off, and while the brim is still under compression cold water is admitted and the temperature of the folded felt so far reduced as to fully harden the size therein, whereupon the hat is removed, its folded edge being set in the best manner known to me. If, however, before the hat is lifted to the press-head the latter be heated, andthen while still under pressure the steam be cut off and cold water supplied to the head for cooling the felt, approximately desirable results will accrue. About one minute and a half is all that is required for either operation, the time being mostly occupied in changing temperatures, and therefore it will be seen why I prefer, as before stated, to place at least two of such machines under one workman, so that while one machine is at work the other can be supplied with or relieved from a hat.

\Vith block-centering devices on the bed and the gage-plate, and operating on hats mounted on blocks, it will be seen that the shifting of a cold-pressed hat to a hot press, and from the latter back to the same cold press, or to a third machine operating as a cold press, can be effected by a mere boy with great rapidity, and therefore, as hereinbefore indicated, two or three of these machines may be profitably employed in one set, so that changes in temperature in any one machine can be avoided, if desired.

Vhen to be used as last described, it is obvious that a cold press can be cooled in various ways, and that the hat-press can be heated by gas-jets or other form of dry heat in lieu of steam, and it is also obvious that any or all of these variations would involve the employment of more or less of the several features of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. The combination of the annular presshead and the 'verticallyniovable hat-bed, substantially as described, whereby a hat having a brim with a folded edge mounted on said bed can be lifted to the press-head, and the folded portion of said brim compressed and set.

2. The combination of the annular-chambered press-head, pipes and cooks for supplying the same with cold water and steam, and the vertically-movable hat-bed adapted to receive a hat, and to compress between it and the face of the head the folded edge of a hat brim, substantially as described.

3. The combination of the annular presshead having a flat brim-pressing face and a central Opening to freely receive a hat-crown, the hat-bed, the bed-lifting mechanism, and the springs for forcing the bed toward the press-head after the lifting mechanism has ceased to operate, substantially as described.

4. The combination of the annular presshead having a flat brim-pressing face and a central opening to freely receive a hat-crown, the hat-bed, its lifting mechanism, the detachable hat-bed, and its hat-block-centering devices, substantially as described.

5. The combination of the annular presshead, the hat-bed, its lifting mechanism, and the detachable annular guide plate mounted on said bed, substantially as described.

6. The combination of the annular presshead, the hat-bed mounted on a spindle, the treadle-lever and links for lifting the spindle and bed, and the hand-lever for throwing the links out of line and lowering the bed, substantially as described.

7. The combination of the annular presshead, the detachable hat-bed, the bed-plate and spindle which supports said bed, and the screws for adjusting the face of the bed truly parallel with the face of the press-head, substantially as described.

RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER. XVitnesses:

HENRY OSTERHELD, THEODORE OSTERHELD. 

